Our three nights in Tain are coming to an end tomorrow and time has passed quickly. Today we headed to Portmahomack for the afternoon and spent some time on the beach. It was almost eerie...where were all the people? Where were the children? The holiday makers? Why is the Caledonian Hotel closed down, and why was the owner(?) chef(?) at the Castle Hotel where we had lunch boasting that his evening chef could do "sauces and everything"? Every time I head north I wince in embarrassment and shame at how poorly some businesses understand what counts as a minimum standard of service and food. But that doesn't explain why a seaside town which I remember as being fairly busy during warmer summer Saturdays was deserted today.